New position with North Island

As of this week, my main post with North Island Beer has shifted to the brewery in Ebetsu, with one or two shifts at the Sapporo bar per week. The change means, for now, a one hour each way car commute — soon to be on snow-covered roads. But it also means, except for especially busy periods, two days off a week. More than that, it means a chance to work in a completely new environment filled with things to learn how to do (there are a lot of things).

In my previous shifts at the brewery (usually just in the morning before heading to the bar) I did various things like kegging, keg-cleaning, tank cleaning, throwing out farm-bound spent grains (moo), and other cleaning-related tasks. This week, on the morning of a brew day, I found myself crushing malts in the mill and prepping hops.


As the days and weeks pass, I expect to see more and more tasks added to my workload. Eventually, I hope to get more involved in the overall brewing process, an area with which I have no experience (besides the bits of prep and cleaning noted above).

There's a lot going on at North Island, including two new full time staff members (one at the bar, one at the brewery). Some other exciting developments are underway, besides the always exciting limited and seasonal beer releases. Stand by for those items!

Meanwhile, I'll have my "first" bar shift since my position change tomorrow (Saturday). Today I'm off, but I find my free time is pretty much consumed by reading about — or consuming — beer. Tonight — although one day late for International Stout Day — I'm going to make beer batter chicken and chips and enjoy some other stouts and one porter who slipped in some how. Cheers!

Enter the Beer Forest

Festivals featuring a wide range of Japanese craft beers have been going on in Japan for a number of years now, and from the sounds of things at North Island, they seem to be growing and attracting more and more fans. In Hokkaido, similar events have so far been absent. Caveats include the Bare Bear Beer Festival to be held this August at Sapporo's International School gym (mostly imports) and the Hakodate beer fest which this year takes place on 8/31 and 9/1.

But now the time has come for a Sapporo event featuring Japanese craft (and of course some imports). The event is set for October 14th, a Monday and a national holiday. A group including North Island, Kalahana, Higurashi, Maltheads, and others just settled on a name last night. Here it is: Sapporo Craft Beer Forest 2013 --- or perhaps SCBF2013 for short. The forest part comes from the planned venue, namely the Bankei ski area not far from downtown Sapporo, which in the late summer is not yet snowy and surely not so hot. Details are forthcoming, but I'll definitely keep the internets posted via Twitter and this blog in English.

So mark your calendars, book your LCC flights, and join us in the forest for what I can only imagine will be a great party.

Beer Bar North Island turns 4 years old

July 11th marked 4 years since Beer Bar North Island opened in central Sapporo. I was still living in Mie of course, but the staff and many of our regular customers have been there since the beginning. Many were already North Island fans when they had their small brewery and beer hall in Sapporo's Kita Ward, a spot that closed when the brewery moved to Ebetsu.

On Sunday, July 14th (2pm - 10pm), the bar is hosting a small event to celebrate the milestone. Called the 4周年ぷち感謝祭 (4-shūnen puchi kansha-sai) ((4-year anniversary small party of thanks, roughly)), two special beers and some guest beers join North Island's regular lineup. A limited release made specifically to mark this event is the American Smoke Ale. A second special beer is the RyIN' Devil IPA made at North Island to celebrate the 2-year anniversary of Tokyo's Devil Craft. Two guest beers each will come from Shiga Kogen and Minoh.

For more details (in Japanese), visit North Island's official blog.

Sapporo goes dark, but there's still enough booze to go around

5月19日20日21日けやきビアフェスのためお休みでーす！
— Daisuke&Kana (@kalahana7) May 18, 2013

Today is the last day of the Keyaki Hiroba spring beer festival in Saitama, where North Island Beer's brewmaster and our bar's chef have been dispatched all week, resulting in a temporary closure of said bar until Tuesday.

What's more, today the two main craft beer bars in town serving a mix of Japanese and imported options are also closed. Kalahana's Kana and Daisuke headed for the festival's last day today, and I can only presume Higurashi's 2-day closure is related. Higurashi is closed today and tomorrow while Kalahana is closed through Tuesday.

That means beer hunters in Sapporo can head for an early pint at Adanonki, stop in for German style enjoyment at Leibspeise, or peruse Pred's lineup at Mugishutei. Further, you can go Belgian at Paul's Cafe. Elsewhere, across from Kalahana is Kopitiam, the Singaporean style restaurant that now stocks bottles of Brew Dog's Punk and Hardcore IPAs.

I guess there's still more than enough booze in town. It would just be a bad day for a craft beer super fan to come to town hoping to check out all the spots.

But come Tuesday/Wednesday, Beer Bar North Island, Kalahana, and Higurashi should be back to normal operations.

Meanwhile, at Keyaki, North Island ran out of beer and jingisukan today.

【朗報？】北島炒め(野菜炒め)、始めました！#beerkeyaki twitter.com/seckey1969/sta…
— セッキー (@seckey1969) May 19, 2013

Moving Behind the Bar

On a recent Monday, Beer Bar North Island was closed, but the staff held a barbecue with regular customers and an after party at the bar.

Not long ago I was scanning Twitter and I stopped on a post by the brewmaster of North Island Beer. The company was hiring for position in their bar. Interesting, I thought. That could be fun. I looked further into it, had a couple of interviews, and now I'm about two weeks into a training period. If all goes well, I'll end up a full time employee of North Island Beer, working mostly in the bar but occasionally in other areas. I've already had a hand in helping name an upcoming seasonal beer.

I never thought I wanted to work in a bar, but the idea of working for a craft beer company (and one that makes good beer) was appealing. Down the road, I hope to be involved in helping the company find new fans, expand to new markets, and keep making great beer. For more on North Island Beer, see the new section of links in the sidebar.

Here on the blog, there may be a surge in North Island related content, but I'll try to keep up to date with other breweries in Hokkaido and the general goings on in Japan as well. On Twitter, I changed my account name to @NorthIslandDan to reflect my new job. That feed will be a source of information in English (and sometimes Japanese too) on North Island Beer, including what's on tap at the bar, upcoming seasonals, and other news.

Having never worked in a bar of any kind, I'm picking up the skills little by little. Pouring beers and delivering them to happy customers is a lot of fun, but memorizing the menu, performing customer service in Japanese, and certain other tasks are still ... under development, if you will.

Until August, I'll be at the bar nearly every day, but in many cases I won't start until mid-way through the night as I wind down my schedule at my current job. After August, I should be there just about every day (the bar is closed on Mondays). If you're in town, come by and try some good beer.

As a side note, I'll continue as editor of Hokkaido Explorer, the online magazine I helped start with my current company. I'll focus on that in the afternoons, head to the bar at night, and sleep in the morning (roughly). 

West of the tower, south of the park

After hearing two weeks ago about a liquor store in Susukino (the nightlife area of Sapporo) that stocks some imported craft beer, I remembered the name of the place but not the address the next morning. Tonight, I stumbled across Momoya and left with some cans of Caldera beer (from Ashland, Oregon).

From Caldera, I went for the IPA and the Amber Ale. To mix things up, I grabbed a Modus Hoperandi IPA from Ska Brewing, which I had never tried (until moments go / it is good). 

The S is missing

It's nice to find a liquor store in town that stocks some variety. They don't carry in Japanese craft beer, but I'll be glad to stop in once in while to pick up something from the states (even if it's more of what I grabbed tonight). 

Momoya is at the corner of Minami 5 and West 5. Wait! Fortunately you don't need any map software to find places in Sapporo. You just need these two numbers (I'm talking only in the downtown area of course). Minami means south, so Minami 5 means 5 blocks south of Odori Park, the several-blocks-long park that spans a huge east-west chunk of the city center. Nishi means west, and the count starts from the brightly lit TV tower at the west end of the park. So Minami 5 Nishi 5 means five blocks west of the TV tower and five blocks south of Odori Park. Trust me, it's easy once you get to know the place a bit.

What makes this night even better was that I was on the way home from Higurashi, the only other craft beer bar in town that I'd yet to visit. More on that in another post.

See you at 5-5!

Survey, nap, then shovel

I spent Saturday afternoon at work, occupied enough that I didn't notice the progression from light flurries to powder snow falling on Sapporo. In those few hours, the landscape had gone from patches of icy remains to a soft white blanket. On the (extremely) short walk to the subway station, I almost took a dive into the pavement and could have had a look at just how powdery this stuff was. The snow kept on falling after I got home and resumed my hourly trips to the window to observe the snowfall situation (see previous post).

Sunday morning brought the first official snow-shoveling session of the season. That is, for most of the neighbors. I put on my coat, stepped outside, and saw just about every neighbor in full shoveling mode.  Recalling my mantra that nine's a crowd, I did a U-Turn and went back to bed. At about 2 in the afternoon I did my duty. I started by sweeping the accumulated snow off the top of the car. Then it's shovel-load by shove-load to the sidewalk across the street, the designated spot for residents of our apartment building. 

Later, on a trip to the grocery store (where my cart of beer and mayonnaise drew a few glances), I saw the mounds of snow in parking lots, which tractors cleared as I slept (photo above [of the snow, not of me sleeping]). So that's phase one of my adjustment to life in the Snow Country (not to be dramatic). As for the beer, it was a combination of Yona Yona ale and the big bottles of Sapporo, the latter thanks to some gift certificates from my wife's grandmother back in Mie. She also sent mikan. 

The snow isn't falling

Just about every night since the first snowfall this month, I walk over to the front window once or twice an hour to see if it's snowing. Often I can only make it out in the glow of the streetlight, so my eyes shoot there involuntarily. After establishing this habit, even in the daylight hours I look first at the streetlight. Nope, still not snowing.

I'm adjusting to life in Hokkaido, and thanks to a late-start to the snowy season we're still easing into it here. We've had a few bouts of snowfall but nothing substantial. And now the rain. Tomorrow the temperatures are set to drop and snow is forecast most days this week. The shared apartment shovel is on standby, my knit cap collection has been boosted, my light summer shoes have been traded in for a pair with traction. 

You may have picked up on my snow obsession. I can't seem to shake it. A colleague who has been here for five years says he too used to like the snow, but now he's over it. Will that happen to me as well? It's possible. But this being my first real winter (Oregon's occasional winter blasts notwithstanding), I reserve the right to be excited. I don't know what exactly excites me about it, but I'll try to figure that out in another post. 

As for beer, I've been enjoying the occasional visit to Adanonki, the used-book-store-craft-beer-bar in the city center. Two taps bring in a rotating selection, usually with two offerings from the same brewery. If the taps don't suit your fancy, a selection of bottles is available as well. 

I've also made a few solo trips to Kalahana, the cider and craft beer bar in the Tanuki Koji shopping arcade. There's always something interesting on the menu, and occasionally I find something from Mie's Ise Kadoya, somewhat easing my waxing sense of nostalgia for Biyagura and their nomihoudai. 

Closer to home, the Seiyu grocery store not far down the road has recently been stocking Yona Yona for about 250 yen per can. Great price for a nice every day beer. I'd like to branch out and find some more bottle/can options for home. I recently heard of a liquor shop in Susukino that might have what I desire. 

So that's my update. And in case you're wondering, despite all my efforts, it's still not snowing. 

A detailed report on Sapporo's craft beer scene (is not found in this post)

I've officially been living in Sapporo for one month, but I feel like I've hardly explored the city. This is in part because I feel no sense of rush now that I live here — everything can wait, dammit! This attitude is not sustainable, however, in the long term. Another reason is budget. Moving is expensive, I don't work many hours so far, and doing beer-related things generally costs money. I do expect to eventually check out more of the craft beer establishments in the city, including a bar in a nearby neighborhood that allegedly serves Yona Yona Real Ale. 

I did recently get in to Adanonki, a used book store / craft beer bar which isn't far from where I work. I went along with a colleague who has lived in Sapporo for many years but hadn't heard of the place. We were both somewhat giddy with hops after trying a Mikkeller Koppi Coffee IPA (also, perhaps, we were giddy with booze). 

Elsewhere, after being alerted via the Japan Beer Times Twitter account that certain Lawson's would be stocking Yona Yona Ale, I scouted my neighborhood locations, only to be disappointed. But it seems that the closer you get to the city center, the better chance you have of finding a participating Lawson. I am, in fact, consuming a Lawsonated ale right now. Here she is: 

Stay tuned as I hopefully ventur further in the craft beer scene here in Sapporo and beyond. 

Moving North

I last posted from the week of my wedding, way back in March. Life as a married person has been fairly smooth, though as opposed to "settling down" we are getting ready to change jobs and move very soon. While our plans are not totally decided, we are moving to Sapporo in Hokkaido.

Of course, I will keep this blog going, and you'll probably notice a shift toward Hokkaido beers and the scene in Sapporo. On that topic, I just came back from a quick trip to Sapporo, and on this occasion I visited two craft beer establishments.

One was Adanonki, a used book store that has two taps and a nice selection of bottles. The atmosphere is very laid back, the location is convenient, and the 11 Pale Ale from Akita's Aqula was fantastic.

The second place, Kalahana, was (like Adanonki) featured in the Japan Beer Times Sapporo article from May 2011. We were actually walking down the covered street it sits on with plans to dine elsewhere, but the gravitational force of craft beer pulled me in. My wife, despite not being a big fan of the average beer, enjoyed a cider, which Kalahana wisely features. The food was nice too. This time we opted for a Greek salad, chicken and chips, and onion rings. Not long ago, on a previous visit to Hokkaido, I went to Otaru Beer's Leibspeise in Sapporo, an experience I wrote about for JapanTourist. On the same trip, I also stopped in to Beer Bar North Island, where I enjoyed two seasonal IPAs. 

There are still other places to check out in Sapporo and further afield in Hokkaido, including one place in my likely-neighborhood-to-be that may have hand pump Yona Yona. Stand by or urgent updates on this topic.

KANSAI SCENE 

Meanwhile, I wrote an article that appears in this month's Kansai Scene magazine about the craft beer scene in the region. It doesn't go too deep into the details, but I hope it provides a nice overview. [Note: as of this writing, the photo that appears with the article on the website is clearly incorrect. You can see how the article was presented in the printed version by clicking on the page gallery.]

In doing interviews for that article, I ended up with a lot more information than could fit into the article. Over the next couple of weeks I will release some of that content. Stay tuned!

Beer number one, boat number eight ... or ... Day one in Hokkaido

Good morning from Chitose, where I'll add this quick update before heading for Sapporo. Satoko's brother lives here, so he picked us up at the airport yesterday and took us around the area, starting at a salmon aquarium that offers look directly in to the Chitose river.

At the many food stalls near the aquarium, I found what became my first craft beer of the trip, a pilsner from Hokkaido Beer Pirkawakka (Googled-found review here).

I washed down the beer with a salmon pizza, and after a pit stop for another quick bite to eat we headed for the hills. Satoko's brother, Kohei, drove us around all afternoon and evening. We thank him very much for spending his day off with us.

Our main stop of the afternoon was Shikotu Lake:

click for full size to read sign board

We rented a paddle boat and set off on our epic 20-minute journey, after the woman at the rental shack laughed at our query about whether we could get to "other side" of the lake. We crossed paths with a couple on Boat Number Eight, who later became the subject of this shot:

click for full size

Further stops included a delicious 100-yen mushroom miso soup, a view point that would have offered a beautiful sunset had it not been overcast, and a toll road that cost nearly as much as the pizza we ordered for dinner after our return to Chitose.

Now, Satoko and I will head for the Big City, where we'll try to balance my quest for craft beer with her less boozy desires.

More to come!